Yesterday, Saturday the 19th, was just so perfectly executed, it’s worth writing about even a day late. We managed to island hop four Croatian islands linking ferry stations and still getting 121 kms on the bike. And when there was no such ferry, we commanded Mario and his ship to haul us in his diesel taxi to a tiny town at the northern tip of the next. In all, it was Cres (my favorite island, with lots of climbing and tall mountains), Krk with the town Baska (the prettiest town), Rab with town Rab (the coolest town), and Pag (a barren, flowing island with 5000 ft mainland peaks overshadowing it. We landed in Novalja for the night, a fun town, but we yearned for the un-touristy vibe and genuine personalities of Rab.
Jesse might called our bed for the night in Baci (on no map at all I’m sure) a bed and breakfast, but it was more of an apartment shared with an elderly Croatian couple on “honeymoon.” regardless, the mother fixed us plentiful food with drinkable, but eerily fizzy, wine. We’re sure Cro and Slo make great wines. We’ll ket you know when we find one.
If you doubt, the place was wonderful, perched on the steep cliffs above the lucid Adriatic.
Now we’re riding a vacation-weekend-packed ferry from the island of Cres to another Croatian island Krk. We keep hopping and cycling south.
After two days of very hard riding, 350k in total, today we woke up late in trieste at my friend susannah’s cozy flat. After a nice breakfast we walked around the city, seeing the cathedral and an andy warhol exhibit, which was fascinating. Then we sat in cafe degli specci in the main square and watched the world walk by-i might have thought of elizabeth while we were there (it was her recommendation). After noah had horse pizza for lunch we hit the road for croatia. This involved a brief section back through slovenia before rolling through beautiful croatian vineyards. We arrived on the coast after 100k and the light was fading quickly. We lucked out and found a quiet bed and breakfast, which is the only place for miles. The mother of the owner agreed to cook us dinner. Perfect. I love these trips with noah. We push so hard on the bike, see so many wonderful places, and meet so many kind people. Today was another memorable day and i am tired, but truly happy.
Trieste, Thursday night – Despite crossing three car accidents, one rock landslide, our (my) first flat tire, one road that unexpectadely turned to gravel, and unrelenting surprises of more and more mountain ranges leaving Slovenia towards the sea, we pulled into Trieste after 178km and, oh, just a bit of climbing. Well those hidden surprises made the ride a wee bit longer than our expected 130km calculation; we climbed and descended that talus slope avalanche carrying our bikes (ask Jesse’s poor mui especiale Dino Signori shoes ); we couldn’t find Jesse’s friend’s flat, so we hired a cab to lead us there (he says 20 minutes, we’re there in 5, and he can’t believe we kept up); at the top of each mountain pass we expect to see the Sea, but it’s yet another mountain range; and Franco who we joined from the border to kead us into Trieste (andiamo a Trieste et lei?). And the it’s a big dinner across the bay from Trieste and the Slovenia we just left, with some locals (good for one night of a break from just Jesse and me sharing enough local wine and food for six), mixed with seasaw, minaiture house, and hack translation adventures. Well, we’ll be back in Slo tomorrow to cross into Croatia. So in all, Slovenia was great for cycling, perhaps not as great for traveling. Ciao. It’s Italy, it’s all ok!
9pm Wednesday the 16th – Lake Bohinj in the formidable Slovenian Alps made an excellent prize at the end of today’s 171km ride, which included an impressive climb to the border from Austria and a gem of a hidden climb and winding, narrow, forest descent to Bled. We forwent lunch in a dark, lost spot that only offered “drinks” and “kuklash”… Anyone know what that is? Yeah we didn’t, so instead we filled up on novel (to us), wild meat dishes down the road. Lake Bohinj is lovely, a glacial lake surrounded on 3 sides by towering peaks. Tomorrow we climb those mountains, drop into the next valley, and work our way to Trieste on the Italian coast.
5:20pm, Tuesday – Landed in Graz and we hit the road. We’re heading south, staying near the Slovenian border tonight. Quick stop at McD. Jesse can somehow eat anything and keep going. Later.
11am Wednesday – We hit the road at 4 yesterday and still got some good ground covered: 92km to the top of a tough 25km climb near the Slovenian border. We stayed in a simple auberge near the summit and had a big meal chosen at random from an extensive, German only menu. The wine was more predictable and thus ensued the 10 hour coma in a little “bed” called two beds… Now just picking up some gatorade and gummy bears for the col climb to Slovenia. Laters.
Overdue is all packed. I fly to Graz tomorrow where I will await the arrival of Noah. He is leaving me stranded in Graz and delaying the start of our trip for three days.
No, seriously, this will be good. We don’t know where we are going or how far it is, but we have a return flight from Nice on August 30th. Bring it.
